African hairstyles are more than just a form of aesthetic expression. These intricate styles, rich in symbolism, represent a profound cultural legacy that dates back centuries. Each braid, twist, and adornment tells a story, symbolizing everything from social status and age to tribal affiliation and spiritual beliefs. Understanding African hairstyles not only highlights the cultural identity they preserve but also offers insights into the resilience of African communities throughout history.
Ancient Roots of African Hairstyles
African hairstyles have an ancient history that goes back thousands of years, offering a glimpse into the social, spiritual, and cultural practices of early African civilizations. These hairstyles, often intricate and symbolic, were used to communicate a person’s identity, societal role, and personal beliefs. Archaeological evidence from ancient Egypt, the Kingdom of Kush, and various West African cultures reveals that African hairstyles served as more than mere adornments; they were expressions of power, spirituality, and social cohesion.

Ancient Egyptian Hairstyles: A Symbol of Status and Spirituality
In ancient Egypt, hairstyles were not only a marker of identity but a visible symbol of hierarchy and divinity. Egyptian society was meticulously structured, with hairstyles reflecting one’s social status, age, and even occupation. Both men and women of the elite class often wore elaborate wigs made from human hair, wool, and plant fibers. These wigs were intricately braided, sometimes adorned with gold, beads, or other precious materials, symbolizing wealth, religious devotion, and a direct connection to the gods. The more elaborate and decorated the hairstyle, the higher one’s social ranking. Egyptian pharaohs often wore stylized wigs or headdresses that signified their royal status and divine power.
Women in ancient Egypt also practiced various braiding techniques, and hairstyles were highly influenced by their age, marital status, and social class. Young girls, for instance, wore distinctive “side-locks” that symbolized youth and innocence, while married women and priestesses wore their hair in more structured and elaborate styles. These braids were not merely decorative but carried significant meanings, often connecting them to deities like Hathor, the goddess of fertility and beauty.
The ancient Egyptians also believed that certain hairstyles could offer spiritual protection. The practice of adorning the hair with amulets and charms was common, as these were believed to guard against malevolent forces. This tradition illustrates how hairstyles were intricately linked to religious beliefs, serving as an extension of one’s spirituality. Today, much of what we know about ancient Egyptian hairstyles comes from the detailed carvings and frescoes found in temples and tombs. You can read more about the cultural significance of hairstyles in ancient Egypt at Ancient History Encyclopedia.
The Nubian Influence: Power and Prestige in the Kingdom of Kush
To the south of Egypt, the Kingdom of Kush thrived as a powerful civilization from around 1070 BCE to 350 CE, with its influence spreading across northeastern Africa. Like the Egyptians, the Kushites valued elaborate hairstyles as markers of status and affiliation. However, they developed unique styles that were distinctly Kushite. The kingdom, known for its wealthy elite and powerful queens (known as Kandakes or “Candaces”), showcased hairstyles that symbolized authority and lineage.
Kushite royalty, particularly women, often wore elaborate headdresses and hairstyles incorporating braids, locs, and various ornamental elements. The Kushites valued tight, coiled braids and headpieces adorned with jewels, feathers, and metals, reflecting both their tribal identity and religious beliefs. These hairstyles were recorded in temple carvings and relief sculptures that depicted figures with distinctive braided and cornrow styles, showcasing their commitment to tradition and cultural pride.
Interestingly, Kushite culture emphasized natural hair textures, with men and women often styling their hair in curls or tightly bound rows, representing a unique aspect of Nubian beauty standards. This stylistic choice reflected the Kushite celebration of natural beauty, aligning with their cultural values and beliefs about identity. For more information on the Kingdom of Kush and its cultural contributions, you can explore resources at The British Museum.
West African Tribes and the Evolution of Braiding Techniques
Braiding techniques have a particularly rich heritage within various West African societies. Ancient tribes such as the Yoruba, Wolof, and Fulani developed intricate braiding patterns and hairstyles that held significant cultural and spiritual meanings. Each tribe had distinct styles that not only represented personal identity but also conveyed social signals within their communities.
In Yoruba culture, for instance, hairstyles were crafted with deep spiritual significance, often performed by skilled braiders who were highly respected in society. Hairstyles like the “Irun Kiko” (a form of thread-wrapping style) were not only visually striking but carried meaning related to femininity, marriage, and coming-of-age rites. Braids could indicate a woman’s marital status, fertility, or rank within the community. Young women often wore elaborate braids during initiation ceremonies, signifying their transition to adulthood. In Yoruba cosmology, hair is considered sacred, acting as a medium of spiritual energy that connects individuals to their ancestors and deities. Read more about the Yoruba people and their cultural traditions at the Smithsonian National Museum of African Art.
The Fulani, another West African ethnic group, are known for their unique hairstyles, which include thin, woven braids decorated with beads, cowrie shells, and other embellishments. The Fulani women, who were often semi-nomadic, used hairstyles to display wealth, familial connections, and marital status. Hairstyles such as the “Fulani braids” are easily recognizable by their unique patterning and adornments, which have transcended centuries to remain popular globally today. This style not only demonstrated artistic beauty but served as an identifier for one’s tribe and family. You can explore more about Fulani hairstyles and adornments at The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History.
Hairstyles as Tribal Identity Markers
In addition to expressing personal beliefs and aesthetics, African hairstyles served as an essential marker of tribal identity. Different tribes throughout the continent created signature styles that set them apart from neighboring communities. Hairstyles, therefore, functioned as a visual language, communicating everything from lineage to geographic origin.
For example, the Himba people of Namibia traditionally wear elaborate hairstyles that signify life stages and social standing. Women from this tribe use a combination of red ochre paste and butter to coat their hair, creating a distinctive red tint that symbolizes the earth and the life force within. Each stage of a woman’s life is marked by a new hairstyle—young girls wear small braided sections, while adult women and mothers sport larger, more elaborate styles that symbolize maturity and fertility. Himba hairstyles are an embodiment of cultural pride and heritage, serving as a visible connection to their ancestry. Learn more about the unique cultural practices of the Himba people at BBC Travel.
In many other regions, hairstyles were also used to differentiate communities. This cultural distinction was especially important in areas where different tribes coexisted. In West Africa, hairstyles such as cornrows, often called “canerows” in the Caribbean, were more than just practical styles; they were also identifiers that showcased ethnic backgrounds and geographical locations. Each style carried a unique signature that could denote whether someone was from the Wolof, Mende, or Ashanti tribes, among others. This tribal use of hair as a means of self-identification remains a testament to African societies’ reverence for heritage and community.
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The Spiritual Significance of African Hairstyles
Hair was often seen as a sacred part of the body in ancient African cultures, associated with spiritual energy and a direct connection to the divine. For many African societies, hair—particularly the top of the head—was regarded as the point of entry for spiritual energy. This belief meant that hair was not simply a personal attribute but a communal asset, connecting the individual to their ancestors and the spiritual world.
In East Africa, for instance, the Maasai people held specific beliefs regarding hair and spiritual energy. Young Maasai warriors, or morans, had distinctive hairstyles that set them apart during their initiation. These hairstyles, which included shaved and semi-shaved styles along with distinctive braids, symbolized the strength and bravery required to join the warrior class. For both men and women in the Maasai community, the process of hair shaving and re-growing was integral to various rites of passage, symbolizing a new stage in life and a re-affirmation of spiritual connection. To learn more about the Maasai’s cultural practices and beliefs, visit the Maasai Association.
African hairstyles have, therefore, been much more than a cultural adornment; they are powerful symbols that encapsulate history, spirituality, and resilience. From the ancient civilizations of Egypt and Kush to the diverse tribes of West and East Africa, hairstyles have reflected both collective identity and personal values. These hairstyles tell stories that span millennia, preserving the wisdom and beliefs of countless African generations. They remain a testament to the cultural depth and artistic legacy that African societies have contributed to the world.
African hairstyles, with their deep historical roots, continue to symbolize much more than just beauty. These styles are a reflection of Africa’s rich, complex heritage, connecting generations and encapsulating the resilience of African cultures across time and space. As we explore the layers of meaning within African hairstyles, we recognize not only their aesthetic value but also their significance as symbols of identity, resilience, and pride.
For further reading on the ancient significance of African hairstyles, visit National Geographic’s exploration of ancient African cultures.
African Hairstyles as Markers of Identity and Resistance
The significance of African hairstyles extends far beyond aesthetics; for centuries, they have been symbols of identity, social resistance, and cultural pride, particularly during the oppressive eras of colonization and the transatlantic slave trade. During these periods, hairstyles carried layers of meaning, allowing enslaved Africans and their descendants to subtly assert their heritage, communicate coded messages, and resist the forced assimilation policies that sought to erase their identities. This section will explore the critical role African hairstyles played in both personal and collective identity during some of the most challenging periods in African and African diaspora history.
Hairstyles as Symbols of Cultural Heritage and Identity
In pre-colonial African societies, hairstyles were integral to expressing cultural identity and social affiliation. Styles such as cornrows, braids, and locs varied widely across ethnic groups, and each had its own set of meanings, often signifying age, marital status, social rank, and even spiritual beliefs. The Yoruba people of Nigeria, for example, crafted intricate hairstyles that symbolized their community roles, while the Himba tribe in Namibia wore dreadlocked styles coated with red ochre paste, symbolizing their connection to the earth and their ancestors. For many African communities, hairstyles also indicated rites of passage, marking critical transitions like adolescence, marriage, or leadership.
When European colonizers began exploiting African nations, they targeted these symbols of cultural heritage. Enslaved Africans were often forced to shave their heads upon arrival in the Americas, stripping them of the hairstyles that connected them to their home countries, tribes, and families. Shaving the heads of enslaved individuals was a deliberate act intended to strip them of their identity and reduce them to mere commodities. Despite these efforts, African people maintained a strong cultural connection through their hair, which became a silent but potent expression of their identities in a foreign land.
For more information on the significance of African hairstyles in pre-colonial Africa, see the World History Encyclopedia’s article on African tribal cultures.
Cornrows as Codes: Hidden Messages in Hairstyles
One of the most remarkable examples of African hairstyles as tools of resistance is found in the use of cornrows (also known as “canerows” in some regions of the diaspora) during the transatlantic slave trade and in colonial societies. Cornrows are characterized by tightly braided rows that lay flat against the scalp, a style that was both practical and deeply symbolic. During slavery, cornrows became a method of encoding messages, especially in regions where enslaved Africans were planning to escape or resist the control of slaveholders.
In Colombia, for instance, cornrow patterns were used to create maps and directions. Enslaved individuals would braid their hair with intricate designs that indicated routes, escape paths, or safe houses. In a time when literacy was rare among enslaved populations and communication was heavily monitored, hairstyles became a covert and creative language of resistance. Different patterns signified specific directions, while hair ornaments such as beads could mark various points along the route, allowing enslaved Africans to retain some control over their fates.
This practice highlights the resilience of African people, who found ways to subvert the constraints imposed on them. By transforming their hair into a means of silent communication, enslaved Africans preserved their intelligence, creativity, and sense of agency despite extreme hardship. The cornrow as a tool of resistance is a powerful reminder of how African hairstyles allowed individuals to subtly defy the dehumanizing systems they were subjected to.
To learn more about the history of cornrows and their role in resistance, explore the Smithsonian’s exploration of hair and identity in the African diaspora.
Hair as a Form of Rebellion and Identity Assertion
Over time, African hairstyles came to represent a broader form of rebellion and identity assertion within enslaved communities. As African descendants settled into communities across the Caribbean, South America, and the United States, they sought to preserve their heritage through their hairstyles. Despite facing discrimination and pressure to adopt European beauty standards, many Africans and their descendants continued to wear braids, twists, and other traditional styles. These hairstyles became an act of defiance, symbolizing the wearer’s pride in their African heritage.
In the United States, the influence of African hairstyles was apparent on plantations, where enslaved individuals used hair to reclaim control over their appearance and sense of self. Women, for instance, often wore headwraps to both protect their hair and subtly defy the European-imposed beauty standards that deemed their natural hair “unacceptable.” Headwraps became symbols of dignity and resilience, protecting hair from harsh conditions while embracing cultural heritage. This trend extended to various parts of the African diaspora, with headwraps serving as emblems of pride in Afro-textured hair.
These acts of resistance laid the foundation for African descendants to reclaim and embrace their hairstyles as symbols of identity and autonomy. Today, traditional African hairstyles continue to be celebrated across the diaspora, standing as markers of the resilience and cultural pride that helped communities survive generations of oppression.
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Hairstyles as Tools of Community Bonding
In addition to symbolizing individual identity, African hairstyles also fostered community bonding. Braiding and other styling practices were often communal activities, especially among women, where they would gather to braid each other’s hair and exchange stories, advice, and support. This act of hairstyling served as a form of social solidarity, enabling community members to share their experiences and maintain unity, even in foreign or hostile environments.
This community-building aspect of African hairstyles was especially vital in maintaining morale among enslaved populations. Even though enslaved individuals were often separated from their families and tribes, the act of braiding allowed them to recreate a sense of family and cultural continuity. These communal gatherings to braid or style hair reinforced bonds that were essential for survival and collective resilience. The communal nature of African hairstyling has persisted into modern times, remaining an important way for families and communities to connect across generations.
External Resource: To gain a deeper understanding of the social importance of African hairstyles, visit Africa.com’s article on African braiding traditions.
Legacy of African Hairstyles in the Modern Diaspora
The legacy of African hairstyles as symbols of resilience and cultural pride lives on in the modern African diaspora, where traditional styles like braids, Afros, and locs continue to be celebrated as markers of Black identity and pride. During the Civil Rights Movement in the United States, for instance, the Afro hairstyle emerged as a powerful statement against Eurocentric beauty norms and became a symbol of Black pride and unity. Icons like Angela Davis and the Black Panther Party popularized the Afro as an emblem of resistance, empowerment, and solidarity with African roots.
Today, African hairstyles remain significant symbols of identity in the face of systemic discrimination and cultural appropriation. Movements like the “CROWN Act” in the United States aim to end hair discrimination and protect individuals’ rights to wear natural and traditional African hairstyles in workplaces and schools. Initiatives such as these underscore the ongoing importance of African hairstyles, not just as personal choices, but as expressions of identity, heritage, and resistance against discrimination.
Social media platforms like Instagram and YouTube have also played a significant role in the modern resurgence of African hairstyles, creating a space for individuals to share, learn, and celebrate these styles globally. Tutorials on traditional braiding techniques, loc maintenance, and Afro care have proliferated online, bridging connections between African descendants worldwide. This digital revival of African hairstyles has fostered greater awareness and appreciation of the cultural importance of these styles, while also encouraging individuals to embrace their natural hair.
External Resource: For information on the CROWN Act and efforts to combat hair discrimination, see the CROWN Coalition’s website.
African hairstyles have long served as silent but powerful expressions of identity, resilience, and resistance. From their use as coded messages in the diaspora to their continued presence as symbols of pride in the modern era, African hairstyles represent a profound legacy of survival and self-affirmation. For African descendants worldwide, these hairstyles are not only a celebration of beauty but a living testament to their heritage and strength in the face of adversity.
Learn more about the role of African hairstyles in resistance and resilience during slavery at the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History & Culture.
Modern Black Hair Traditions and Their Cultural Renaissance
In recent years, Black hair has experienced a powerful resurgence in the public eye. No longer relegated to mere fashion statements or personal choices, Black hairstyles today symbolize empowerment, cultural pride, and collective resistance against a long history of discrimination and stereotypes. The journey toward this renaissance has been gradual but transformative, as people of African descent worldwide have reclaimed natural styles, fostering a movement rooted in self-acceptance, identity, and the protection of Afro-textured hair.
The Natural Hair Movement: From Stigmatization to Celebration
The modern natural hair movement emerged in the late 2000s, although its origins trace back to the Black power movements of the 1960s and 1970s. During that period, prominent figures like Angela Davis and Nina Simone wore Afros, sparking a shift in beauty standards that encouraged African Americans to embrace their natural textures. This was a powerful statement against the Eurocentric ideals that had long dominated beauty norms. However, by the 1980s, chemically straightened hair and relaxers regained popularity, and natural textures became less visible in mainstream spaces.
Fast-forward to the 21st century, and the resurgence of the natural hair movement marked a renewed interest in embracing natural curls, kinks, and coils. Social media played a critical role in amplifying this movement, allowing Black people to share hair care tips, product recommendations, and style tutorials. Platforms like YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok became hubs for celebrating textured hair, with influencers and stylists demonstrating innovative techniques and offering encouragement to those transitioning away from chemical treatments. For an in-depth look at the origins and impact of this movement, check out Essence’s coverage of the natural hair movement.
Protective Styles: A Blend of Tradition and Innovation
Protective hairstyles, including box braids, twists, locs, and Bantu knots, have gained mainstream popularity while helping Black people maintain the health and integrity of their natural hair. These styles are designed to protect hair from damage caused by manipulation, environmental exposure, and styling practices, reducing the need for frequent detangling or heat application. Protective styles also minimize breakage, allowing individuals to grow out their hair while celebrating traditional aesthetics that originated in African cultures.
One of the most popular forms of protective styling today is the box braid, a technique with roots in African culture that dates back thousands of years. Each braid is meticulously sectioned to create a uniform grid pattern, resulting in a style that is both visually stunning and highly functional. Locs, another widely recognized protective style, involve matting sections of hair to form long, rope-like strands that can be worn short, long, or adorned with beads and other embellishments. Unlike braided styles, locs require a commitment to a specific grooming method and are often seen as an enduring symbol of spiritual and cultural significance.
Even with the rise in popularity of protective hairstyles, these styles have faced ongoing stigmatization. For years, Black individuals have encountered discrimination in schools, workplaces, and public spaces for wearing protective styles. This discrimination has spurred advocacy movements calling for policy change, leading to legislation like the CROWN Act. To learn more about the impact of protective styles and the legislation supporting their acceptance, visit the CROWN Coalition’s official site.
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Media and Fashion’s Role in Amplifying Cultural Expression
The media and fashion industries have increasingly embraced Black hair as an art form, contributing to a shift in the global perception of Afro-textured hair. High-profile designers, photographers, and models are celebrating the richness and diversity of Black hairstyles on runways, in fashion editorials, and on the big screen. Celebrities like Lupita Nyong’o, Solange Knowles, and Yara Shahidi have used their platforms to normalize Black hair on red carpets and magazine covers, encouraging young Black audiences to embrace their textures unapologetically.
These cultural icons are not only popularizing Afro-textured hair but are also challenging beauty standards that have long marginalized Black features. Music videos, films, and advertisements are portraying textured hair in positive and creative ways, celebrating it as an authentic representation of Black identity. For a closer look at the fashion industry’s evolving relationship with textured hair, check out Teen Vogue’s feature on the representation of Black hair in fashion.
The Rise of Black-Owned Haircare Brands and Economic Empowerment
In tandem with the rise of the natural hair movement, Black entrepreneurs have launched haircare brands specifically formulated for textured hair. Historically, mainstream brands overlooked the unique needs of Black hair, often providing products with harsh chemicals that did more harm than good. Recognizing this gap, Black-owned businesses like SheaMoisture, Carol’s Daughter, and TGIN have created products tailored to maintain moisture, manage curls, and support healthy hair growth. The success of these brands highlights the economic impact of the natural hair movement, empowering Black entrepreneurs and creating products that respect the unique beauty of textured hair.
These businesses also serve as community pillars, providing educational resources on hair care and embracing Afrocentric values that uplift Black identity. With consumer support, Black-owned haircare brands continue to expand, promoting a message of inclusivity and self-love. For more information on Black-owned haircare brands and their impact on the beauty industry, explore Essence’s list of Black-owned beauty brands.
Addressing Hair Discrimination and Advocacy for Inclusivity
Despite the progress made, hair discrimination remains a pervasive issue, particularly in workplaces and schools. Instances of students facing disciplinary action for wearing natural hair or protective styles are well-documented, with many Black professionals feeling pressured to alter their appearance to conform to Eurocentric grooming standards. The CROWN Act, first passed in California in 2019, aims to combat these injustices by legally prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and styles associated with racial identity. The act has since gained traction in several states across the U.S. and is inspiring similar legislation worldwide.
By advancing policies like the CROWN Act, advocates are ensuring that Black individuals can express themselves authentically without fear of prejudice or professional repercussions. This advocacy has opened doors for more inclusive policies, promoting a work and school environment where diversity is respected and valued. For more on the CROWN Act and the fight against hair discrimination, check out the official CROWN Coalition page.
Social Media as a Tool for Community and Empowerment
Social media has had a monumental influence on the modern natural hair movement, fostering community and solidarity among Black individuals globally. Platforms like Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok have transformed into digital spaces where people can share their hair journeys, swap product recommendations, and showcase different styles. Hashtags like #NaturalHair, #ProtectiveStyles, and #BlackGirlMagic have united people from different backgrounds, celebrating the diversity and beauty of Afro-textured hair.
Content creators and influencers have built substantial followings by sharing hair care tutorials, product reviews, and insights into their personal experiences with textured hair. This digital community has helped to dismantle misconceptions and normalize Afro-textured hair in mainstream culture. For a list of influential natural hair influencers to follow, visit Allure’s roundup of popular Black hair influencers.
Education and Cultural Pride
An important facet of the modern natural hair movement is the emphasis on education. Educators, hairstylists, and advocates are working to ensure that young Black children grow up with positive affirmations about their hair. Organizations and initiatives have emerged to support parents in understanding how to care for textured hair, fostering a sense of pride in Black children from an early age. This education empowers young people to embrace their identity, reducing the likelihood of internalized bias and helping them develop a positive self-image.
Books, online courses, and community workshops offer resources to promote cultural pride and proper hair care. This knowledge not only benefits Black communities but also educates broader audiences, encouraging everyone to appreciate the significance of textured hair. To explore resources that support cultural pride in Black hair, see The Brown Crayon Project’s educational materials.
Embracing Black Hair as a Global Movement
The resurgence of Black hair traditions has extended beyond the African diaspora, with individuals around the world celebrating the unique beauty of textured hair. Afro festivals, natural hair expos, and community gatherings have cropped up globally, from London and Paris to Johannesburg and Lagos. These events highlight the unity of the Black community and invite allies to participate in a shared celebration of identity and beauty.
In these spaces, individuals can access workshops on hair care, attend panels on cultural identity, and network with others who share similar experiences. This international recognition of Black hair fosters a sense of global solidarity, demonstrating that Afro-textured hair is a powerful symbol of pride that transcends geographic boundaries.
For information on events celebrating Black hair worldwide, visit Afro Hair & Beauty Live.
A Celebration of Self-Expression and Resilience
The modern embrace of textured hair is more than a trend—it is a reclaiming of heritage, a defiance of centuries-old beauty standards, and a celebration of resilience. From the natural hair movement to the rise of Black-owned brands, and advocacy for anti-discrimination policies, Black hair is both a personal and political statement. In a world where inclusivity is expanding, Afro-textured hair stands as a testament to the beauty of diversity and the power of self-expression.
Conclusion
Throughout history, hair has played an essential role in African cultures, acting as a mirror to societal structures, personal identity, and spiritual beliefs. Each hairstyle, whether braided, twisted, adorned, or styled in natural form, represents a cultural narrative that links generations across time and geography. When we consider the meaning behind these styles, it’s clear that they offer more than just aesthetic value—they reflect a rich heritage and a deep sense of belonging.
The significance of these hairstyles became particularly pronounced during periods of adversity, especially in the transatlantic slave trade. Faced with efforts to strip away their cultural markers, enslaved Africans held fast to their heritage by maintaining traditional hair practices. This resilience speaks to the ways people can preserve their identity even under extreme oppression. For enslaved Africans and their descendants, hair became an invaluable source of connection to their homeland, a powerful reminder of their worth, and a channel for preserving their cultural essence. In these styles, individuals found a means of silent protest and a way to resist erasure.
In contemporary society, the revitalization of these traditional practices serves as a form of cultural renaissance, allowing people across the diaspora to reconnect with their roots. Through the natural hair movement and protective styling, there is a renewed celebration of textured hair and its versatility. This resurgence has fostered a global community that not only recognizes but also honors African heritage, challenging dated beauty standards and shifting cultural perceptions.
The influence of these hairstyles has permeated various aspects of modern culture, from fashion runways to corporate spaces, redefining how Black identity is presented and accepted in public and professional settings. The enactment of anti-discrimination laws to protect natural hair in workplaces and schools marks a historic change, reflecting growing acceptance and pride. Ultimately, these hairstyles are symbols of strength, unity, and resistance, and their continued celebration amplifies the voices of those who, throughout history, have fought to preserve their identity and heritage. Through this enduring connection, cultural pride and ancestral legacy continue to thrive.
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